This was an excellent tour. From the moment Albert met us at Windhoek airport and took us to Eros Hills we felt at home with a friendly, interested and interesting guide who was going to ensure an exciting and varied tour.
An "appetiser" in the afternoon at Okapuka lodge was followed the next day by a drive to Vinger Klip with its fascinating cliffs and pillars. Three subsequent days and nights at Hobatere Lodge enabled us to sample a wide range of fauna, two drives in the day and one at night giving ample opportunity. It was here that we experienced such rarities as lesser spotted genet and the ringing and recording of birds by Steve Brain.
Crossing Etosha from west to east took three days and the same number of lodges. Albert's extensive knowledge - as well as navigational skills - helped us to sample so many mammals and birds in so many different settings. Seeing rhino, giraffe and zebra at the waterholes was wonderful but finding and observing Kirk's Dik-dik in its natural habitat was particularly thrilling for me.
The last section of the tour was spent beside and on rivers in the Caprivi Strip. Each location offered different perspectives and opportunities.
Again, I recall King's Den on the Chobe River with especial affection. Elephant and hippo were always on hand. It was our good fortune to witness a bull elephant traversing the water, gradually disappearing altogether but for its "periscope" trunk and reappearing in all its dark satin glory.
Our tour finished at Victoria Falls, a fitting closure in many ways but the abiding sentiment was the wish to continue or start again, with the same guide and company. Throughout the fortnight we had seen (and heard !) so much and learned even more and, it has to be said, largely due to Albert's guidance. He had responded readily and positively to requests, ideas, needs and, above all, questions.
We look forward to another trip in as near the future as possible.
Best wishes, Chris & Anthea
The Quest for Herero Chat (Namibornis Herero) You all know the feeling, if you really „have to see a bird“, it becomes harder and harder to track it down. Once you have seen it though, they pop out everywhere around you. Well this story nearly had a very unhappy ending.
Although I have Herero Chat on my list already, my friend Andrew sent me this great pic of „his“ Herero Chat, I wanted one as well… its just the way it works. Of we went; the desert was waiting. The Spitzkopje, a dome shaped mountain (1700m high) protruding the flat gravel plains of the Namib Desert like a sore thumb. This is the home of one of Namibia’s most sought-after birds, the Herero Chat. Although described as locally common, it can become a considerable mission to track them down. And the search was a great one.
These gigantic domes of bulbous red granite have attracted people over thousands of years already and it remains a mystical and very special place for those going through the trouble of reaching it. … Even if you have been there a hundred times, it always feels like…wow... the first time.
This is truly great birding territory.
I had my fire going way before dawn already, since a melodic Bokmakierie (hence its name) woke me to rise and look at it. Chestnut-vented Tittbabblers are common, but a Layard´s was my first this morning. This was a good start, or so I thought. White-tailed Shrike, Monteiro's Hornbill, Dusky Sunbird, Mountain Wheatear, Brubru, Pririt Batis and many others kept me amazed and most importantly did they keep my hopes up, but the Chat remained absent. My eyes grazed every Acacia, Combretum or other scrub, tree or creeper next to every boulder this mountain had to deliver; my thoughts turned on what I had done wrong to “not see” this bird again. It did occur to me, that many birders seek up these rocks to find them and probably all used recordings to call them in, so they might be heavily taped. I saw no use a tape this morning and kept on using sight only. Ok, the Long-billed Pipit really made my day... and when Augur Buzzard and Booted eagle kept circling above me I did realize how lucky I was to be there. A truly nice experience was to discover a Pearl-spotted Owlet perching quite near me. The wind did spoil our birding-afternoon a bit, but a glass of cold white wine next to a crackling fire ended the day just fine. Barn owl was heard and seen well.
I stood up even earlier this time and planted myself right in an undisturbed corner of granite outcrops and lower scrub vegetation… this is what they love and this is where they live. A row of Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters sunning themselves had my attention when a chat-like jizz caught my eye – and there it was – no, sorry, let me rephrase, there they were. As if they have never been anywhere else. As if they wanted to reward me for the previous schlep to find them.
The Herero Chat couple even sat out a photo-session and gave me the best of their beautiful song… what a moment. We did do a scenic walk after breakfast to the infamous „Bushman's Paradise “. A place I have visited ever so often always to be the only visitor around. I guess this is what makes Namibia so special – the feeling of rediscovery and solitude – and of course great birding.
Bird list – Spitzkopje at 29+30/6/2006: Dusky Sunbird, Rock Kestrel, Mountain Wheatear (Chat), Speckled Pigeon (Rock), Bokmakierie, Brubru, Ashy Tit, White-tailed Shrike, Common Fiscal, please note: Lanius collaris subcoronatus with white eye-brow, Scaly-feathered Finch, Bradfield's Lark, Black-chested Prinia, Guineafowl, Marico Sunbird, Booted Eagle, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Red-eyed Bulbul, Pririt Batis, Pale-winged Starling, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Grey Go-away-bird, Long-billed Crombec, Lark-like Bunting, Layard´s Titbabbler, Chestnut Weaver, Violet-eared Waxbill,Laughing Dove, Pied Barbet, Namaqua Dove, Fork-tailed Drongo, Common Scimitarbill, Rock Martin, Cape Bunting, White-throated Canary, Monteiro's Hornbill, Black-faced Waxbill, Long-billed Pipit, Rosy-faced Lovebird, Black-throated Canary, Southern Masked Weaver, Chestnut-vented Titbabbler, Red-faced Mousebird, Cape Turtle Dove, Pearl-spotted Owl, Barn Owl, Herero Chat, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Familiar Chat, Augur Buzzard, Cape Wagtail, Pale Chanting Goshawk, Double-banded Courser.
Rundu at Okavango: The tall trees mostly belong to Treminalia sericea (Silver Cluster-leaf)
Try and call Barred Owl and Pearl-spotted Owlet. This attracts many birds.
Good birds seen:
Ashy Flycatcher (Bluegrey Flycatcher) / Schieferschnäpper – listen to its call.
Southern White-faced Scops-Owl (White-faced Owl) / Weißgesicht-Ohreule
Rundu sewage works:
The reeds consist mostly of: Phragmites australis (Common reed)
Try and call African Rail / Kapralle. They move inbetween little openings of the dense reed, from one thicket to another. Prepare to have very short sightings.
Call the Little Rush-Warbler (African Sedge Warbler) / Sumpfbuschsänger, they react to the tape quite well
Expect also to see:
Hottentot Teal / Hottentottenente;
African Openbill (Openbilled Stork) / Klaffschnabel;
African Reed-Warbler (African Marsh Warbler) / Gartenrohrsänger;
Coppery-tailed Coucal / Angola-Mönchskuckuck
Move down the road to Divundu:
Look out for a mixed forest with little disturbance, consisting of:
Schinziophyton rautanenii / old: Rhizinodendron rautanenii - Manketti Tree;
Philenoptera violecea / old: Lonchocarpus capassa – Rain-tree or Apple leaf;
Baikiaea plurijuga – Zambezi Teak or Zambezi Kiaat;
Burkea Africana – Burkea or Wildsering;
Dense cover of lower vegetation, some dead tree trunks for breeding on deep Kalahari sands
….
Look out for Rufous-bellied Tit / Rotbauchmeise and Green-capped Eremomela / Grünkappen-Eremomela… try and call them in.
Retz’s Helmet-Shrike old: Redbilled Helmetshrike / Dreifarbenwürger, try and call them in
Picknick area 120km from Rundu:
Search for Arnott’s Chat / Arnotschmätzer (although probably not found here, rather between Divundu and Kongola, they prefer well developed Brachystegia, Baikiaea and Mopane woodland)
White-bellied Sunbird / Weißbauch-Nektarvogel
Yellow-throated Petronia old: Yellowthroated Sparrow / Gelbkehlsperling
Striped Kingfisher / Streifenliest and
Woodland Kingfisher / Senegalliest
Brown-crowned Tchagra old: Threestreaked Tchagra / Damaratschagra
Bradfield's Hornbill / Bradfieldtoko, Felsentoko,
Pale Flycatcher old: Pallid Flycatcher / Fahlschnäpper,
Amethyst Sunbird old:Black Sunbird / Amethystglanzköpfchen,
Racket-tailed Roller / Spatelracke (try and call them in), mostly flying through and from lower to medium stratum.
Chinspot Batis / Weißflankenschnäpper,
Tinkling Cisticola / Rotschwanz-Zistensänger (try and call them in),
African Hobby / Afrikanischer Baumfalke,
Black-headed Oriole / Maskenpirol (try and call them in),
Brown Firefinch / Großer Pünktchenamarant,
Red-headed Weaver / Scharlachweber
Dark Chanting Goshawk / Graubürzel-Singhabicht
White-breasted Cuckooshrike / Weißbrust-Raupenfänger (try and call them in)
Southern Black Flycatcher / Drongoschnäpper
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird / Gelbstirn – Bartvogel, try and call them, they don’t come closer, but they do respond.
Wahlberg’s Eagle / Wahlbergs Adler
Lizard Buzzard / Sperberbussard
Wood Pipit / Miombopieper, perches readily on rocks, mounds, bushes and trees. Attracted to grass fires.
Retz’s Helmet-Shrike old: Redbilled Helmetshrike / Dreifarbenwürger, try and call them in
About 30-40km outside Divundu, the forest opens a bit and the lower strata turns into high grass. This makes for good birding for:
Coqui Francolin / Coquifrankolin
Small Buttonquail old: Kurrichane Buttonquail / Laufhühnchen
About 20km outside Divundu, the Manketti forest becomes denser,
Try for:
Red-headed Weaver / Scharlachweber
Chinspot Batis / Weißflankenschnäpper
White-browed Scrub-Robin / Weißbrauen-Heckensänger, try and call them
Retz’s Helmet-Shrike old: Redbilled Helmetshrike / Dreifarbenwürger, try and call them in and
White-crested Helmet-Shrike old: White Helmetshrike / Brillenwürger, they react very actively to call of Pearl-spotted Owlet – use own and that call.
Try the Rufous-bellied Tit / Rotbauchmeise again.
Leave Divundu and enter the Ngepi road… drive along that road till you reach Mahangu Lodge.
Birds to find here:
Luapula Cisticola (split from Black-backed Cisiticola) / Luapula Zistensänger, look out at Reedbeds and other wetland vegetation and rank grass (e.g. Echinochloa colona and Diplachne fusca – swamp grass) associated with rivers and wetlands.
Wood Pipit / Miombopieper, perches readily on rocks, mounds, bushes and trees. Attracted to grass fires.
Tree Pipit / Baumpiper, open edges of woodland, grassy hillsides with scattered bushes, check out edges of exotic plantations and gardens.
Plain-backed Pipit / Braunrückenpiper, check out burnt areas and grazed areas, they also like cultivated land.
Buffy Pipit / Vaalpiper
African Pipit / Weidelandpiper
Lizard Buzzard / Sperberbussard along riverine vegetation
Sharp-tailed Starling / Keilschwanz-Glanzstar, look out for lower open woodland, mostly drier part of Habitat.
Birding in vegetation right next to Okavango river should result in the following:
Little Bee-eater / Zwergspint
Hartlaub's Babbler / Weißbürzeldroßling
White-fronted Bee-eater / Weißstirnspint
Purple-banded Sunbird / Kleiner Bindennektarvogel
Violet-backed Starling old: Plumcoloured Starling / Amethyst-Glanzstar
Meves's Starling old: Longtailed Starling / Meves-Glanzstar
Laughing Dove / Senegaltaube
African Mourning Dove / Angolaturteltaube
Wattled Starling / Lappenstar
Greater Blue-eared Starling / Grünschwanz-Glanzstar
African Wood-Owl / Woodfordkauz
Grey-headed Bush-Shrike / Graukopfwürger
White-browed Robin-Chat old: Heuglin’s Robin / Weißbrauenrötel
Meyer's Parrot / Goldbugpapagei
Southern Carmine Bee-eater / Scharlachspint
Black Crake / Mohrenralle
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater / Schwalbenschwanzspint
Red-eyed Dove / Halbmondtaube
Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove old: Greenspotted Dove / Bronzeflecktaube
Have a look at this link => Mahango Game Reserve and Popa Falls, here you will find more Info on this area.
Drive the road to Kongola bridge…
Try the Retz’s Helmet-Shrike old: Redbilled Helmetshrike / Dreifarbenwürger and Search for Arnott’s Chat / Arnotschmätzer; they prefer well developed Brachystegia, Baikiaea and Mopane woodland), again.
Check out the Bradfields Hornbills.
Keep your eyes peeled for Dickinson’s Kestrel / Schwarzrückenfalke, they like open country near water.
Find the great camping site at Nambwa:
Various habitat create some fantastic birding here. En route and at Nambwa you should look out for:
Southern Brown-throated Weaver / Braunkehlweber
Wood Pipit / Miombopieper
Crested Francolin / Schopffrankolin
Buffy Pipit / Vaalpieper
Black-collared Barbet / Halsband-Bartvogel
Reed Cormorant / Riedscharbe
African Fish-Eagle / Schreiseeadler
Brown Snake-Eagle / Brauner Schlangenadler
Rufous-bellied Heron / Rotbauchreiher
Purple Heron / Purpurreiher
Cardinal Woodpecker / Kardinalspecht
Broad-billed Roller / Zimtroller
Red-faced Mousebird / Rotzügel-Mausvogel
Green Wood-Hoopoe old: Redbilled Woodhoopoe / Steppenbaumhopf
Common Scimitarbill old: Scimitarbilled Woodhoopoe / Sichelhopf
African Wattled Lapwing / Senegalkiebitz
Collared Pratincole old:Redwinged Pratincole / Brachschwalbe
Crested Barbet / Haubenbartvogel
Blacksmith Lapwing old: Blacksmith Plover / Waffenkiebitz
Chirping Cisticola / Sumpfzistensänger
Tawny-flanked Prinia / Rahmbrustprinie
Dark-capped Bulbul old:Blackeyed Bulbul / Gelbsteißbülbül
Terrestrial Brownbul old:Terrestrial Bulbul / Laubbülbül
Arrow-marked Babbler / Braundroßling
Swainson's Spurfowl old: Swainson's Francolin / Swainsonfrankolin
Yellow-breasted Apalis / Gelbbrust-Feinsänger
Grey-backed Camaroptera old: Greybacked BleatingWarbler / Graurücken-Grasmücke
Swamp Boubou / Zweifarbenwürger
Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike / Orangewürger
Hadeda Ibis / Hagedasch-Ibis
Magpie Shrike old:Longtailed Shrike / Elsterwürger
Lesser Honeyguide / Kleiner Honiganzeiger
Red-billed Oxpecker / Rotschnabel-Madenhacker
Southern Black Flycatcher / Drongoschnäpper
Grey Tit-Flycatcher old: Fantailed Flycatcher / Meisenschnäpper
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Have a look at this link => Kwando River, Caprivi, here you will find more Info on this area.
Drive on to the Zambezi, since this is where the real birding begins:
Birds like
Grey-headed Gull Graukopfmöwe
Greater Swamp-Warbler / Papyrusrohrsänger
African Skimmer / Braunmantel-Scherenschnabel
Collared Sunbird / Waldnektarvogel
Yellow-bellied Greenbul / Gelbbrustbülbül
Red-billed Firefinch / Senegal-Amarant
Brown-throated Martin / Braunkehl-Uferschwalbe
White-crowned Lapwing / Langspornkiebitz
Bearded Scrub-Robin / Brauner Bartheckensänger
African Wattled Lapwing / Senegalkiebitz
Await you here.
And look out for: Ross’s Turaco old: Ross’s Lourie / Rossturako on the edges of the larger forest tracts. Find stands of Euphorbia and dense Brachystegia.
Also find Eastern Nicator old:Yellowspotted Nicator / Bülbülwürger in the riverine forest.
Have a look at this link => Katima Mulilo, Eastern Caprivi, here you will find more Info on this area.
have fun...